Julia's Dress

(Client names have been changed for privacy reasons.)

Internet shopping for a prom dress is a crap shoot.  I've said it before in a previous post.  Most of those websites with pretty prom dresses show these busty thin models that are probably somewhere between 5'9 - 6' tall.  And that's without heels.  So what do you say to a girl who buys her prom dress online? Be careful!  Read the sizing charts very carefully.  Find out the manufacturer's recommendation for sizing if the dress is snug/very close-fitting.

I can't really say buy the dress by the bust size or hip size if I don't know anything about the style.  The only thing I can definitely say is don't go down a size if you're size isn't in stock.  Better to go up one size.  Just. One. Size.

Julia's dress is the perfect example of when I'm glad to be wrong.  Her dress was purchased online.  It was out-of-stock so the date of delivery was an issue.  It worked out fine, but keep in mind sometimes the in-stock date never arrives.  I'm glad that didn't happen with Julia's dress.

It was a nailbiter for me though.  Julia is not petite.  She is average height, probably around 5'6 give or take an inch, has a full bust, and is curvy.  I saw her dress choice on the website and given her curvy figure I was worried.  Was it going to be the right style for her figure?  I had my doubts.  It's a tough call because all those prom dress models are what, like a size 2 or 4?  Maybe a 0 with C -cups to fill out the dress bodice.  And to tell the truth, I can't remember if the dress was ordered to fit her bustline or her hip.  I'm pretty sure, however, they didn't have the right size in stock given her measurements so we ordered up one size.

Anyway, I had my doubts about the style on her figure.  I'm SO glad I was wrong.  I don't really see these girls outside of their dress code attire for school or sporty clothes jackets and sweats for sports.  How was I to know she was well-balanced from head to toe with great legs.  Nothing on her body is out of proportion, for example large hips or wide shoulders so the style really worked well for her.  I especially like how the bodice cups curve down into a V on the bodice.  It draws the eyes downward and is slimming.  The short underskirt highlights her great legs and the flowy overskirt skims her curves and is slenderizing for her shape.  She is a great example of a curvy girl rocking the look.  Her height, balanced proportions, curves, great legs, it all works for her!

I had to make a few alterations for her dress.  I like working using the top-down approach.  Do the alterations starting at the neck and shoulders and move down.  My work approach is what happens on top is going to affect the bottom so start from the top first.  Hemlines are done last.

The first alteration to tackle was the bra cups on the dress.  There was gaping along the top edge of each cup from the center of the cup toward the side seam.  Hmmm...how to alter them.  The fabric is pleated so it's not a super simple fix.  Not hard, but not easy peasy.  I pinched out how much to alter via a diagonal dart beginning near the arm crease angling toward the bust apex.  Hmmm...(again!)  Should I make the dart on the inside or outside?  I'm not going to take apart the lining and fashion fabric if I don't have to--it's not worth it given the cost of the dress.  So I pinch the dart on the inside and see how it looks on the outside.  No, that doesn't look very good.  I make the dart on the outside and finger press it down.  Yes!  That looks acceptable.  Not only that, it makes it a little easier to finagle with the fabric pleating to make the dart blend in with the pleats so it's not that noticeable.

After the darts were completed, I tacked the waist.  Again, I'm trying to find a balance with the right alteration and cost for each client.  If I don't have to open up seams and can complete an alteration successfully using a different method, albeit a less costly, "fudging" method, I'm going to do it.  I typically discuss these methods with the client and parent at the initial consultation.  I made two additional vertical seams at the waistline (can't remember where I placed them but it was probably in the back near the side seams) to pull in the midriff so it hugged the waist in a pleasing way.  It wasn't tight, but it nipped in her curves to give her more of an hourglass figure.

Moving down, I tackled the hem.  Julia needed about 3 1/4" in length removed from the sheer overskirt.  The new hemline will blend into the upward curve at the bottom of the front.  I prefer any blending between a new and unaltered hem to be done as inconspicuously as possible so the bottom front was a good place to do this. As always, the goal is to accomplish the alteration so it is undetectable or inconspicuous so the visual is on the overall silhouette with no or little distraction.

Time to step back and see the big picture!  Julia looks beautiful in her gown which was purchased online.  It was purchased one size outside her range due to stocking issues, but we got it to fit and mold to her figure with minimal fuss at a very reasonable price.